Kona: Nurturing the Bean from Field to Cup

The Kona coffee bean can only be designated as such if it comes from the one place in the world where it is grown – Kona, Hawaii. As we discussed last week, the volcanic nutrients make Kona’s soil a unique and highly hospitable location in which to grow coffee. In addition to the soil nutrients, Kona’s successful cultivation also depends on a specific combination of sun and water. Kona’s climate offers sunny mornings, rainy afternoons and cool, comfortable evenings, which result in an ideal combination of weather factors to Kona coffee plants.

Kona is cultivated on the Big Island of Hawaii in the North and South Kona Districts, where it grows on the slopes of Mount Hualalau and Mauna Loa. Despite the generosity of Princess Bernice’s KSBE land grant in the late 19th Century, the acreage on which Kona can grow is limited to fewer than 3,000 acres by the size of the North and South Kona districts, making Kona coffee one of the most sought-after and expensive coffees in the world.



But how does the Kona plant produce the green beans that eventually are roasted to a rich brown color and ground to make your cup of Kona? To answer this question, I rely upon my relationships with Kona growers, who let me know annually the rate of growth of the crop. Typically, Kona coffee plants bloom in February and March, producing exquisite white flowers on the coffee trees and which the growers refer to as “Kona Snow.” In April, green berries appear on the branches, and by late August a red fruit, commonly called “cherry” due to its resemblance to that ripe berry, are ripe for picking. The Kona farmers then pick the cherries from the coffee branches by hand, plucking each tree of its cherries several times between August and January, whereupon the annual crop cycle begins anew. During the harvest, each coffee tree will yield about 20 pounds of cherries. “Kona Snow” never ceases to take my breath away, but what really impresses me is this: it takes seven pounds of cherries to make one pound of roasted coffee.


The farmers then take the picked cherries and run them through a coffee pulper, which separates the cherries’ beans (there are two beans per cherry) from the fruity pulp. After this separation, the beans are placed in a fermentation tank for approximately 12 hours. They are then removed, rinsed and spread to dry on a drying rack in the sun, which usually has a cover to protect the beans from becoming wet again in the event of rain. After the beans have dried completely (usually after one to two weeks), the beans are stored (they are now dried green beans) prior to roasting.

On Cupping

I wanted to share this video with you so that you can learn a bit more about cupping. I hope you enjoy this and find it helpful. There are other videos at the bottom of the blog for your enjoyment as well.

History of Gevalia

As many of you know, I have been Master Taster at Gevalia for 40 years. I am honored to contribute to the company's rich history, and I thought you might be interested in learning more about our heritage.

Gevalia was founded in 1853 in Gävle, Sweden, where we still have our factory and where all coffee tastings are performed. Our founder, Victor Theodor Engwall, was a successful importer devoted to procuring the world’s best coffees for Sweden’s beverage enjoyment. Engwall’s dedication to scouring the world for the finest beans continues to be the driving philosophy at Gevalia, and his commitment to discovery, connoisseurship and perfection are values held today by every Gevalia employee.

Within a few years of establishing Gevalia, Engwall’s commitment to the world’s best coffee was rewarded when Sweden’s King Gustav stopped at Gävle and sampled Gevalia. The king was so enamored with the coffee’s perfectly-balanced taste and warm, inviting aroma that he named Gevalia coffee purveyor for the Royal Court of Sweden, an unparalleled honor it continues to hold today.

The combination of royal patronage and strong founding philosophy make Gevalia a uniquely positioned coffee. There is simply no other coffee purveyor that works with such rich history and high standards, which have been continually met and surpassed for over 150 years. Of particular importance, Engwall’s founding spirit still serves as the heart and soul of Gevalia.

It’s this commitment to perfection that has led to my years of service as Master Taster exclusively for Gevalia. Like Engwall and all Gevalia Master Tasters before me, I believe in traveling the world to attain the best coffee, and by putting each blend and bean through a series of rigorous tests and cuppings to ensure only the best coffees are offered by Gevalia. After all, it’s up to me to ensure that Gevalia remains a timeless brand that’s held in the highest esteem and signifies only the best that coffee has to offer.

History of Kona and Its Growers

As I prepare for my trip to Kona in November, I am paying close attention to the weather in Hawaii, especially hurricanes, which may affect the crop. I have been assured by the growers in Kona that Hurricane Flossie caused no damage, and my team continues to monitor the weather closely.

My relationships with coffee growers across the world’s production regions are essential to ensuring the unsurpassed quality of Gevalia coffees. Each region’s growers contribute to that location’s coffee history, and every farm and grower plays a unique role. As we prepare for the 2007 Kona Coffee Cupping Competition, I am compelled to share the special story of the Kona growers and their crop.

In Kona, the growers have been the driving force behind the coffee crop since the first coffee tree was planted in Hawaii in 1813. Although the first tree was short-lived, the local farmers realized the potential of growing coffee in the local soil, which is richly enhanced by volcanic nutrients and minerals. By 1828, coffee seeds had been transported to the Kona coast, and the coffee trees were flourishing. The taste of the beans was unprecedented, and Kona coffee quickly gained a superior reputation that went far beyond the island. With the burgeoning crop and the powerful combination of Kona’s rich volcanic soil, determined families of farmers and ideal climate conditions, coffee acreage increased at a rapid rate and the Kona coffee industry was born.

What I enjoy even more than the story of the farmers and their commitment to producing the first Kona beans is the source of support behind Kona’s farmers. Just as the Gevalia coffee story is tied to Sweden’s royal family, the success of the Kona bean is due largely to the foresight and philanthropic efforts of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop of Hawaii, the last direct descendant of King Kamehameha the Great. The majority of Kona coffee is cultivated on land owned by the Kamehameha Schools Bishop Estate (KSBE), a trust implemented in 1884 to fulfill Princess Bernice’s request to utilize her land to generate income solely for the Kamehameha Schools, which today is the largest independent school system in the United States. Princess Bernice’s estate trustees implemented a long-term agricultural leasehold system, whereby the Kamehameha Schools continue to flourish today and the Kona growers continue to have access to the world’s richest volcanic soil.

I love the story of Kona’s beginnings and the special role it plays in the Hawaiian community, and I am reminded of this great history every time my plane touches down in Hawaii for the Kona Coffee Cupping Competition. This year’s event is scheduled to be held November 7-8. I look forward to seeing you there.

I would also like to thank you for all of your comments and inquiries. I was recently asked how long David must train to become a Master Taster, and the answer is that most Master Tasters usually require between five and seven years of training to attain the Master Taster title. Please keep your comments coming - I look forward to your questions.

Passing the Torch: The Tradition of the Gevalia Master Taster

I am often asked how one attains the title of Master Taster. And I always respond in the same way: coffee is an art for which one must feel passion.

I began my professional career as a photographer, which was my profession for seven years. Although I enjoyed it, I knew it was not my permanent career and continued to explore other fields. In the early 1960s, I trained as a First Tenor with the Royal Swedish Opera Company and was offered a contract. However, in a stroke of good luck, I discovered coffee at the same time, and after exploring the art of images and the art of singing, I found that the art of coffee was my passion.

My mentor was a Master Taster named Arne Roslund, who guided me through the process of becoming a Master Taster. With passion in-hand, my next task was to hone my senses of taste and smell. Through many days of Triangle Tests, bean examination and cupping, I began to learn how to taste. People are always amazed when I tell them that I achieved the rank of Master Taster after seven years of tasting. But I always tell them that cupping is a profession that requires years of careful observation and constant learning, and that becoming a Master Taster only happens after a matter of years.

In addition, the honor of being named Master Taster can only be bestowed by one who already holds the title. I was honored to be named Master Taster by Arne.




Now, over four decades later, I am getting ready to hand my tasting spoon to the next generation of tasters. It is now my privilege to share the timeless skills needed to become a Master Taster with David Holfve, who has joined Gevalia to learn the art of cupping. David has a keen sense of smell and an enthusiasm for the work, but more importantly, I know he will become Master Taster because he possesses that which trumps all other qualities needed in a taster: David has the passion for coffee. It is an honor to present him with his own tasting spoon.

My Favorite Regions

How many of us search for the “perfect cup of coffee?” From people I talk to around the world, it seems the answer is all of us.

In over three decades traversing the globe in search of the best beans for Gevalia, I have found, much to my delight, that there are several ways to make the perfect cup of coffee. “Perfect” can come from many sources, and from a single bean or a blend. Here are my top sources for the perfect cup:

- Antigua from Guatemala: single beans, simply perfect in the cup

- Kenyan: a wonderful black currant flavor in every cup

- Kona: the best of region and bean; a beautiful taste from a beautiful region

As you can see, I have a “perfect” cup from just about every coffee region in the world. In my travels, I continue to be amazed by the unique tastes that each region offers. By surveying and perusing each regional crop, I have been fortunate to become close with farmers committed to producing only the best beans. It’s this commitment that delivers the unparalleled tasting experience I have found in each of these regions.

As all of you continue on your quest for your perfect cup of coffee, I will strive to deliver the perfect cup of Kona coffee to you. Even though the competition is still over three months away, I am observing the climate and working with the growers to ensure the best coffee possible in each and every cup that makes its way to you.

Background of the Beans

It’s amazing how much work goes into your cup of coffee. The harvesting, preparation, shipping, roasting, cupping and packaging all play important roles in coffee production, but none is more important than working with a superior bean from the outset.

Most people are always taken aback when I show them raw coffee beans. This is because they’re green, and in our minds, coffee beans are the deep brown color that we buy as grounds or whole beans in the market. In over three decades at Gevalia, I have traveled the globe to find the best beans for our brand. I’m always on the lookout for beans that can be included in a Gevalia blend, or can be featured alone as a Gevalia Select Varietal coffee. What’s the difference? At Gevalia, our blends are composed of seven to eight beans, whereas our Select Varietals are produced from a single bean and only available for approximately four months, when the bean is at its peak production time. This is the case with Kona coffee, which is made from a single bean into the Gevalia Select Varietal Kona Coffee.



People are also surprised when I tell them about the manner in which coffee grows and its similarities across all regions. The coffee seed and plant are biologically the same across all regions, but what produces different coffees is how and where they are grown. The most important factors in coffee production include altitude, climate and soil conditions. For example, in Antigua coffee grows at 1,400m (4,593ft) above sea level. There is a Kenyan coffee that grows at 2,000m (6,562ft), and the highest coffee in the world grows in Ethiopia, at approximately 2,500m (8,202ft). For Kona, the altitude is only 400m (1312ft). Kona coffee grows in rich soil that is formed primarily by lava and volcanic ash, and grows successfully due to all the nutrients therein.

One needs to keep in mind that maturation of the bean takes longer at higher altitudes. It is also true that more mature beans, such as the Ethiopian bean, provide a much fuller aroma than low-ground coffee.

When you pour your cup of coffee in the morning, you will now know that it began as a green bean, and was influenced by its growing climate and altitude on its way to your cup.